THIS VALUED MARINE fish of white flesh is one of the most requested in Brazilian restaurants. The firm flesh breaks into large flakes after cooking, allowing it to be cut into tranches and chargrilled or roasted, often with a crust of herbs or nuts. Whole, it can be stuffed with vegetables and cooked in the oven. Another common use is in moquecas (fish stews). Although the species is not threatened, it should be consumed in moderation. The closed season varies. In Bahia and Espírito Santo, for example, it lasts from May to July; in Paraná, it is in November and December.